LODI, Calif. — It’s a story that spans two centuries of tradition. Japanese American-owned Mikami Vineyards has had roots in Lodi since 1896.
Despite the Mikami family spending time in a Japanese internment camp, a period of time where they lost it all including their freedom. The story of family resilience and how the fourth generation of grape growing is keeping the wine-making tradition going.
On a 15-acre vineyard in Lodi, 120 years of tradition is in bloom, under the careful guidance of Jason Mikami. While this plot of land hasn’t always been Mikami Vineyards it’s always been grapes.
“For me, it’s about honoring a tradition,” said Jason Mikami.
Third-generation Japanese American Jason Mikami is continuing the legacy of his grandfather Teruichi Mikami, who immigrated from Japan to Lodi in 1896 at thirteen years old.
“Mikami is actually composed of two Japanese characters. The first syllable 'mi' means three and 'kami' in this case means up,” said Jason Mikami.
His family farmed grapes in areas we know today as Acampo, Woodbridge, and Stockton until 1942. After the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor's military base in Hawaii, Japanese Americans on the West Coast were forced into internment camps.
“Japanese Americans had to give up whatever property they had to be incarcerated in these camps," said Jason Mikami.
His grandfather and father Jim Mikami were sent to Rohwer Arkansas internment camp from 1942 to 1945.
His mother at the time faced another first in U.S. history. She was living in Hiroshima, Japan — It’s a name many know because it was the city where America dropped its first atomic bomb.
“She was an atomic bomb survivor, she had a brother who passed away immediately during the atomic bomb. He was [essentially] evaporated when the bomb dropped and my mom also suffered burn injuries,” said Jason Mikami.
When the Mikami’s returned from the internment camp to Lodi things were not the same.
“Because of various laws at the time, they did not own that property so they were effectively renting out property,” said Jason Mikami.
Returning to Lodi with just a train ticket in their hands and whatever they could carry, the Mikami men returned to the only work they’ve ever known, growing grapes.
“Whether you call it the immigrant spirit or the American way, my grandfather and father just continued to work as farm workers. They worked different properties and eventually saved enough to purchase the original property in the 50s,” said Jason Mikami.
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Where the vineyard stands today is a result of his father’s, Jim, hard work. In 1963 they expanded the property.
“There is a phrase in Japanese or Japanese Americans, it’s called "Shikata ga nai." It basically means 'you have to bear with it,'” said Jason Mikami.
After his father’s passing, Jason took Mikami on a new path. In 2005, they began making wine.
“My mom always instilled in me this, 'our family land, don’t sell it,'” said Mikami.
His mother passed away in 2017.
He says it’s important to honor a tradition so many in his generation have abandoned.
“Growing up there were a lot of Japanese American families in the area but my generation — post-college — tended to move to the bay area or other locations and move out of farming. So for me, to be able to still operate this vineyard and produce these wines, I feel a lot of pride,” said Mikami.
Wine-making is not an industry many minorities have ventured into. Even Jason admits it was a risk but one he wanted to take.
“To be able to see other folks trying to honor their legacy or history is really nice to see,” said Mikami.
But Jason feels the Mikami story speaks to the immigration policies and inequities polarizing our country today.
“From a Japanese American perspective, a lot of times what I think about is it’s unfortunate with the immigration policy these days. There are a lot of negative connotations associated with Mexican Americans, etc, and their story today is not different than my father’s story 50 years ago. Whether it be forms of racism or having stereotypes put upon you. So it’s really important for us to not relive that history of treating Mexican Americans like the Japanese during World War II. Same thing for Muslim Americans as well, over the past 20 years a lot of discrimination [against] Muslim Americans, it's the same thing. It’s just the immigrant experience and we need to be able to overcome the stereotypes."
For Mikami keeping his family story alive is very important.
“To think about what my grandfather had to do to come as a thirteen-year-old or fourteen-year-old boy to the United States back in 1896, to what my father had to endure during World War II. And now to be able to carry on their tradition of grape growing and making wines,” said Mikami.
What keeps him going today and doing this hard work is his family.
“I think they would be very proud. I think they would be very happy that I am continuing to own and operate the property and try to produce something under the family name,” said Mikami.
A story that spans over 120 years and three generations of wine growing.
“It means a lot to be able to pass that on to my daughter,” said Mikami.
Jason is hopeful one day his daughter will want to continue creating a fourth generation for Mikami Vineyards.
Today, Mikami Vineyards has four wines and are preparing to release their fifth.
They are also planning an expansion on the property in hopes to be open for public tastings and to share their story.
Two of their wines have received scores of over 90 plus by wine critics and have won multiple gold medals and best of class.
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