NOVATO, Calif. — Sometimes a geographical place moves on an odd historical path and that's true for Olompali State Historic Park. This grassy 700-acre plot of land overlooks San Pablo Bay in Marin County. It’s been a historic garden, a rancho and at one point a hippie commune. Before that it was Coast Miwok territory.
“For the Coast Miwok, Olompali is home, one of many homes, but it's one of the more important ones because it's a trade site,” said state park interpreter Ryan Forbes.
Much like Highway 101 is today, the land surrounding Olompali was a heavily trafficked trade route for different Indigenous tribes across California. The Coast Miwok were at the center of it.
“It’s a perfect little stopping ground in between. Plus, it's a really good area to find water, food and really anything else you might need to live out here," Forbes said.
Olompali means “Southern village” and the Coast Miwok lived for thousands of years in this area. They lived in what are called redwood coachas. Replicas of the structures are set up in the park to see how they lived. You’ll also find many grinding stones on the property.
“The holes in these boulders are created by grinding into the rock over the years and you end up creating for yourselves the sort of perfect mortar and pestles that the Coast Miwok are able to use when processing some of the foods that they'll be eating here," Forbes said.
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Spanish explorers were the first to displace the Coast Miwok, then early settlers after the gold rush built a mansion on their land. It belonged to Galen Burdell, a wealthy dentist in 1860s. Alongside the mansion, his wife Mary built an elaborate garden around the mansion. They lived there for many years until the property was eventually sold to another family.
“So, the hippie commune, often called the 'Chosen Family,' is a small group of individuals. (They) came out here around 1967 to start sort of an alternative lifestyle group,” Forbes said.
The “Chosen Family Commune” was started by wealthy businessman Don McCoy who wanted to start a utopian community. The community attracted all sorts of artists including classic rock band the Grateful Dead, who lived there for a few months.
“Right here on the front steps they would playing music. The commune actually ends up on one of their album covers,” said Forbes. “There's even a decent number of Deadheads coming by to stop by and check this place out.”
The commune didn’t last long. The mansion caught fire in 1969.
“An electrical wiring problem is probably what starts the fire, and they're unable to really put it out or stop it,” Forbes said.
California State Parks eventually took over the property in order to preserve the odd yet important history.
“I want us to recognize the people who came before us, but also the beauty of the places that we need to protect, like Olompali,” said Forbes.
ANOTHER STATE PARK ON THE BACKROADS: Dos Rios is the first new California state park in a decade. Most of it can't be reached by car, so put on your hiking boots and tune up your bike.
